The End

I am sitting in an air conditioned library in El Paso and bike is in my motel room packed inside a box. My legs are stiff and my back is sore, a familiar feeling that is usually relieved after 15 minutes of riding. My last two fingers on each hand are still numb (due to compression of which nerve, med students?) I reached the border two days ago, at Palomas, although I might as well be in Mexico now as everyone is speaking spanish. The ride to the border was quite a push, not something I would have expected to be able to do 2 months ago.

The day started in Silver City when I woke up at 3:30. I packed up with my headlamp, inhaled a bagel, a cinnamon bun, and some pop tarts, and was on the road by 4:15. I rode in the dark for a couple hours, then just as I turned onto gravel the sun was rising and I could appreciate my surroundings. South of Silver City and into Mexico is the Chihuahuan Desert, mostly cacti and grass, enough grass that people still attempted to raise cattle (although in a much lower density) At about 50 miles I crossed the interstate and stopped at a gas station for some cold gatorade. At 80 miles I stopped at an abandoned gas station in Hachita to eat lunch and repair a flat. Although I'm not sure which one was responsible, I pulled 3 cactus thorns from my rear tire. The last 45 miles paralleled the border to Columbus; I rode against a constant headwind stopping only if there was a big enough bush that might offer shade. It is more comfortable riding in the sun then it is stopping in the sun, as I require a constant breeze to keep the sweat from running into my eyes. The border patrol guards were very helpful, offering water and reminding me to be safe. Apparently this section was a popular entry point for illegal aliens and drug traffickers. By mile 115 I was riding mostly out of the saddle, not so much because I was racing to the finish, it just hurt too much to sit down. At 6:00 I arrived in Columbus, 125 miles from Silver City and 3 miles from the border. I found a burger then continued to Palomas. I took a picture of the "Welcome to Mexico" sign, turned around and returned to Columbus to camp. I fell asleep before the sun could set.

The ride to El Paso yesterday was probably the most boring of the entire trip. The road ran flat along the border, and I was riding at just a high enough intensity that I could not kill time singing, instead I alternated between watching the miles go by on the odometer, or watching the minutes go by on the clock.

But I'm done now. It has really been an amazing trip, it may take me a while to get back to real life. There really is nothing more freeing than having everything you need to live for 4 days, riding all day, then pointing to patch of land and calling it home for the night. Every morning I awoke with a clear goal for a day and a passion to get started on it as soon as possible. I ended each day so exhausted that I could sleep anywhere, satisfied that I was that much closer to Mexico, and looking forward to next day, when I knew my legs would be fresher.

I'm glad I did this.

I'm not ready to leave

I am loving it here. I am especially happy after just realizing it was Saturday and not Sunday. I walked around town early this morning thinking nothing was going to be open.

The road from Grants to Silver City has been very diverse, with lots of short, steep uphills and equally steep downhills. I can go from subalpine, to prairie, to desert and back in a day. It stopped monsooning down here so it is HOT.

Pie town was everything I dreamed it would be and more. They have no gas stations, payphones, groceries, but they have 2 pie cafes. I ate my pie before noon, and, feeling quite satisfied, was ready to continue south. But this pickup truck stopped my and told me I had to stay at the "Toaster House", a hostel for bikers and hikers. They showed me to this old house with toasters decorating the front entrance, and told me to be at home. The owner was actually in Sweden at the time, having a grandchild, but I helped myself to a bed, shower, laundry. There was a guest book which I read all evening; every hiker and cyclist that has travelled the continental divide had stopped there. Later that evening "cowboy Jim" stopped by to welcome me, as did a few other characters. As I was falling asleep upstairs Jim and company returned to the house and played guitar on the porch. Coolest place ever.

I'm hanging out in Silver City, taking my first 0 day. I need to kill some time before my flight leaves.